To Lake Bogoria and further

Wednesday, 6.11.2013
At six in the morning in Nakuru we were woken up by a Muslim morning prayer, which began with a melodic chanting for an hour, then it moved to a prayer till his voice had got completely hoarse. Quick breakfast, grocery shopping in a Europe-ish supermarket and once again road, road ……

After an hour of driving we crossed the equator for the nth time. We tried to stand at the same time both in the northern and the southern hemispheres. My feet were a few centimeters too short to do it, but I tried to stretch the legs very much and managed fifty-fifty. I was saved by taking photos at a globe, as realizing that I have a weakness, souvenir sellers surrounded me and I would have broken. During the photo time I gathered all my soul’s forces to not buy everything I liked. Other members of our group are strong since birth and did not-exaggerate with shopping, except Ilgonis who bought three African drums, but it is probably his unrealised dream of childhood.

Further the road leads to Lake Bogoria. Plain landscape – hills overgrown with shrubs, in places there are cactuses. Local houses once again are poor. There are also houses of corrugated tin. I do not like them – they clash with the surrounding landscape. There are also cactus hedges, even quite high, nobody will get through them. Again the architectural masterpieces of the old friends, termites.

Lake Bogoria did not excite me too much. Yes, there were both the greater and the lesser flamingos, there was the African black stork. All the joy was suppressed for me by the bird corpses lying around the lake. Excitement was caused by the hot springs and the possibility to cook the eggs we have taken with us. One needs to know how to cook eggs here, as the strong bubbling of the springs can bring them to the gods the springs.

There was a plan to see at the Thomson’s water fall in the village of Nyahururu, height of which is 170 meters. Unfortunately, one hour can change everything. We arrived in pitch black darkness; the waterfall could only be sensed by ears and skin. Still we should drive of 100 km to the arranged accommodation.

We searched for the accommodation for a long time and thoroughly- nothing. Then we captured a talkative person, who took us to the another site since the-old was closed down. As Agnese had strong documents, which showed that the old site was booked and deposit paid, we got some great 2 and 4 person rooms in the new place for a very good price. Later it turned out that the 4 person room has two beds for four men.

We could order a dinner in the motel. Me and Vitolds 4.8LVL for both ate each two sausages with cabbage salad and ugali, drank beer. Great! This was followed by a fantastic night – a cool fresh air, good beds and warm, warm blankets.

Nairobi to Maasai Mara

Wednesday, 30.10.2013
Last thing I heard the previous evening was that we should meet at breakfast at 8:30 with all the bags already packed so that we could leave Nairobi as early as possible. It was planned to travel by two 4WD. It was agreed that the cars will arrive at 19:00 the previous evening. But when we went to sleep there was no sign of the cars. In the morning only Ināra, Vitolds, Rūdolfs and Anders. Turns out that plans changed at 2am since there was still no sign of the 4WD. In morning our colleagues had gone for groceries shopping by the lodge owner’s car. They returned after 9am with news that instead of two 4WD we will have one 8-seater Toyota Landcruiser with a driver. The owner of the cars, found out where we are planning to go and knowing the quality of roads, was afraid that the promised cars won’t be able to withhold the route.  

We were waiting for the driver and the 4WD for a very long time. Finally we left Nairobi shortly before 12pm. We should go for around 230km. In Nairobi suburbs apparently is a criminogenic situation as the houses are as small forts – windows with grills, a fence around territory with strong metal gate. At first we were going along a highway of not the best quality, but still a highway. Along the route  we saw tea plantations. Later something like a semi-desert. When Suswa mount appeared in sight, we stopped at a sightseeing place. It was interesting for me to see the sand whirlpools in the semi-desert scenery.  

At Suswa mount started the Maasai lands. Our destination was Maasai Mara. To get there, soon we turned left on the highway. That was a shame since soon the tarmac road finished, but we still had more than 100km till our destination. We made them almost offroad. There was a gravel road, but so bumpy that the drivers had made new paths on the sandy ground. From time to time we met some Masai person who was grazing goats, in some places also sheep and cows. In the bushes we also noticed their miserable homes – clay huts.  

At 17:30 we reached our campsite “Acacia camp”. We were shown places for tents with a fireplace nearby. Since there was no firewood and we had prepared to make dinner on gas stoves, fireplace didn’t interest us that much. There were toilets and showers in the camp. When we started to prepare the dinner, two Maasai people visited us and brought firewood for the fireplace. That was a friendly gesture for free. After the dinner Ilgonis and Agnese introduced us  to the stars of southern hemisphere. The Maasai people offered to guard us in the night – a friendly gesture again.